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Along with beautiful presentations of prominent Portuguese brands such as Nuno Baltazar?s homage to ballroom culture or Kolovrat?s Cuban-inspired collection, this year?s ModaLisboa edition proved once again that the new generation of designers was going to be the one leading the fashion revolution in Portugal and bringing more visibility to the country?s fashion scene. Here are some of our favourite ModaLisboa Spring/Summer 2024 collections. Soft pink makes the frst appearance. The pleats that open and close orderly like an organ, the bottom hem that spreads out like a fan, and the skirts that bloom like a corolla composed the classical and romantic tone together. Blue and green with different shades are following closely, interweaving gradual layers on cotton and viscose fabrics of varying thickness, on pieces like frilled jackets and bud dresses, which pushes the atmosphere returning to the 40s and 50s to the climax. The?Maria do Carmo?girl is soft, sensual, quirky, and lives by the ocean. For her S/S24 collection, Sangue Novo contestant and finalist Maria da Carmo Studio celebrated all things feminine and summery. Here she chose to reinterpret traditional patterns such as criss-cross and argyle, with a modern new-gen twist and to work with summer staple pieces like light dresses, t-shirts and mini-skirts. Seeing the na?ve imprint of the designs and the use of soft colours, we can?t help but think of Constan?a Entrudo?s influence ? whom Maria do Carmo cites as one of her inspirations ? and both happen to have grown up in the Madeira Islands and studied at Central Saint Martins. Passionate about honouring her homeland, Maria do Carmo poetically included ? as she did in her previous collections ? jewellery made out of limpets, an aquatic snail typically found in the Madeira and Azores archipelagos, and a Y2K-inspired touristic t-shirt. A smattering of male looks were less inflected by the 1920s (when the founder apparently became the first couturier in Paris to produce menswear) than a desire to present a 2020s foil to the house?s this-season womenswear. The results included boot-cut pants and low-skirted, wide-collar tailoring (so halfway between then and now) spiced with sometimes-coated guipure detailing and shared styling touches. Lanvin?s recent-ish history and powerful origin story means it remains a wonderful but slightly formless opportunity: At this presentation it continued to take gradual shape. A smattering of male looks were less inflected by the 1920s (when the founder apparently became the first couturier in Paris to produce menswear) than a desire to present a 2020s foil to the house?s this-season womenswear. The results included boot-cut pants and low-skirted, wide-collar tailoring (so halfway between then and now) spiced with sometimes-coated guipure detailing and shared styling touches. Lanvin?s recent-ish history and powerful origin story means it remains a wonderful but slightly formless opportunity: At this presentation it continued to take gradual shape.